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Author Topic: Reading water  (Read 8105 times)

ICA

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Reading water
« on: October 31, 2011, 04:38:23 PM »

Fellas,
On the topic of reading water, say for Cohos, Steelheads, or perhaps even Springs, what are the general rules to follow in order to be successful? Many newer and less experienced anglers like myself, hear a lot about the importance of being able to read water, and I imagine it is because many are far more successful in catching than myself. I do try to approach a section of water without rushing and do my best to see what's going on at water surface, but have real trouble being proficient at it. Any of you guys willing to share some thoughts on this subject for the benefit of the rest of us? Thanking you guys in advance!  :) 
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paul1971

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Re: Reading water
« Reply #1 on: October 31, 2011, 04:45:28 PM »

It really takes time and experience reading water is critical during stealhead season. The more time spent on the river the better you will get.
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azafai

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« Last Edit: October 31, 2011, 05:03:31 PM by azafai »
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milo

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Re: Reading water
« Reply #3 on: October 31, 2011, 04:56:04 PM »

Start with this:

http://www.freshwaterfishingblog.com/freshwater-fishing-tips/fishing-secrets-to-reading-water-seams-slots-tailouts-undercuts-and-logjams/

And if that fails, cast your presentation in the most unlikely spot. The fish can be anywhere.
Timing is everything.

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Every Day

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Re: Reading water
« Reply #4 on: October 31, 2011, 05:15:57 PM »

As you get out more and more, you will just instinctively know which water to target.

There are a whole bunch of scenarios that can come into play here.
I'll give you the Steelhead strategy I follow.

Clear, sunny days with clear water:

- Pocket water days (although really any day is a pocket water day). This is by far the easiest water to fish. Hit up places like Tamihi and just pick a pocket and start walking and flogging away. Generally the fish will hit on the first or second drift, sometimes the 3rd. I normally take 1-3 casts in every spot I THINK could hold a fish, and 5 casts into spots that I KNOW will hold fish (due to hooking them there already, etc). Hit every pocket, don't pass anything up, even some that are 12 inches deep close to the edge (as long as they have some cover). You would be surprised in some places I've hooked Steelhead over the years.

-Runs. Hit up the heads of deep runs with lots of white bubbly water. This is normally the case where fast pocket water dumps into a big deep run. This can also be achieved in runs where there are large boulders in the middle of the flow causing disturbance. The fish will sit in this while bubbly water for both oxygen in low water periods, and also for cover.

Normal days (ie sunny but normal flow, cloudy low flow, cloudy normal flow)

- Pocket water is always a good bet as said before.

- Runs... mid sections and tailouts. I like to look for where fast and slow seams merge. It's also a good idea to look for shoals or steep drop offs and fish right along them. Fish will sit right in front of them where there is little water flow. Generally looks for runs 4-6 feet deep with some nice chop, seams. Go take a look at the river during low clear conditions. Make note of things on the bottom. If you see a boulder or log under water there is a good chance a fish will sit behind it in times of bigger/normal flow rates and river heights.

- Never underestimate side channels. As I said before I have hooked fish in weird places. One was in a side channel up against a log. The channel was maybe 8 inches deep with a massive log in the middle that had a 2 or so foot deep trench along it. Figured what the hell, threw a cast and was into a 10 or so pound chromer. If it looks like it could hold a fish and has decent cover, ignore the depth and throw a few casts, it can be surprising.

Dirty water:

- Right along the edges. By dirty water I mean 2 or less feet of vis. Fish along the edges (first 5 feet from bank) and shallow side channels. Use things like big pink worms, large colorados or big gobs of roe (roe flies worked well too  ;) ). I hooked probably close to 10 steelhead last year in less than a foot of water where I was surprised I couldn't see their backs sticking out.

Some other tips:

- This has been said over and over. If you hook a fish somewhere, keep going back. Chances are other fish will sit there under the same conditions. Start keeping some notes on water height, vis and conditions after every trip to help you out.

- Don't ignore any water. When I start with a new area I cast out from the bank in 1 foot intervals. 1 cast every 1 foot all the way out and anywhere from 3-5 in seams that I see of fishy looking spots. Cover water fast with one thing to pick off aggressive fish. Sometimes I'll go back through after with something different (normally the pink worm, fish it fast, fish it last).

- Create a circuit. Make mental notes of where you see people catching fish and where you caught them. I have had the same circuit on the Vedder for the last 3 years and it always puts out fish. Last year I only got skunked twice, and that was during the cold snap. Keep going back to the same spots, year after year even if possible.

Coho:

Slow tailouts and backwater. I've seen them holding in tree roots with water less than 2 feet deep and dead calm. And yes they will come out from under the log to bite if they aren't spooked badly enough. Watch for risers, they always give themselves away. When sight fishing them, watch for black tails. Colorados, spoons and roe are the key for these guys on gear. I am convinced that spoons and flies will out fish bait in most conditions, especially in right water. Best thing is, you can fish untouched water that isn't busy with spoons and flies that gear guys cant hit.

Springs:

Big deep pools. Cast right along fast and slow seams. Sometimes they will hold in water 4-6 feet deep as well, but most of the time they will be moving through runs like these. The pools don't necessarily need to be fast per say, but deep is always good if there isn't much surface action for cover. I like colorados and big gobs of pro cure roe for these guys.
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kindalonismo

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Re: Reading water
« Reply #5 on: October 31, 2011, 05:17:33 PM »

Not to jack your thread ICA but I have the same questions? I started river fishing in the past 2 seasons after years of fishing on the west coast of the island and mostly think when I do get into fish, it's more by fluke than understanding the water. I have done my fair share of hiking and exploring the lower mainland, but not always confident in the water I am fishing.

Thanks for the links guys
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DRP79

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Re: Reading water
« Reply #6 on: November 01, 2011, 09:11:28 AM »

Great post ED, thanks for that.
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ICA

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Re: Reading water
« Reply #7 on: November 01, 2011, 09:26:55 AM »

Fellas,

That's why I enjoy this forum because you guys are just a wealth of information and so willing to share with "freshies" like myself, and helping to make us better anglers. I think this is what it's all about isn't it?......educating others and thus taking the sport to a whole new level. THANKS GUYS!  and also for those postings yet to come, I say it is very much appreciated.

Cheers!
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adecadelost

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Re: Reading water
« Reply #8 on: November 01, 2011, 10:00:34 AM »

Great advice from Every Day.
Reading water comes with time and experience.  The more fish you observe (and catch) the more you understand where they live.
Each species has there favorite spots but sometimes you'll be surprised where you find them.

For those first starting out to read water the best advice I can give is "Look for structure"

All fish like cover to feel safe.  Look for drop-offs, large rocks they can tuck in behind, fallen trees, rapid water that covers them from above, deep areas they can escape to.

Start with the structure and work from there.

But learn how to fish a run effectively.  Don't just go rushing into the water and start casting to where you think they are.  Start at the top and work through the run systematically.


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leadbelly

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Re: Reading water
« Reply #9 on: November 01, 2011, 07:36:11 PM »

Here's a little clip an paste from a FWR reply circa 2003 lol
 hope it helps or entertains

GOOD WATERS FOR RIVERS & SPECIES TECHNIQUES:
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Good waters change with the water level.  Also, different species prefer different types of water.  Therefore, I list the following rivers & river conditions with varying techniques to increase chance of success.  There are many situations you can hook a fish, but the following situations can greatly increase your odds.

Vedder Spring:
lower river - look for deep pool  or runs with bottle neck or shallow barrier gravel  bar ahead.  Very few spring will dare to go through these shallow spots at day time & they pile up at the pool.

mid-river rapids - look for deeper & stronger flow behind rocks further out
as they are strong fish & they can stay where coho & chum won't.  Those stay closer to shore are usually beat up springs & pretty dark.

Vedder Coho: (early season before flooding water)
lower river - roe fish the pools in the morning, best at the tail out.  When sun comes out, try spoons & spinners in the deep pool.  Late afternoon & evening, coho will start to move.  Look for barrier or bottle neck spots as coho pile up there before night fall.  Roe & wool will do well.  Also, watch for 'trap spot' along the rip raps of the shore line.  For example, if the main river is blocked by a shallow barrier gravel bar, but a smaller channel forms along the dyke with weaker flow but deep enough for coho to sleek around rocks & stumps, then this smaller channel can be a hot spot, particularly if it eventually leads up to a smaller pool with its own barrier gravel bar.

mid-river - watch for coho travel lane along the edge of rapids.  If a holding spot is formed with smooth level riffle flow & deep enough to drift, and if you can stay out of sight of the coho holding there (using riffling or SCT techniques), it will be a hot spot.  If that holding water has a big rock behind it, and the water drops sharply after that , then it will be a dynamite spot. Coho usually sit right in front of the rock covered by riffles (invisible).  We found a spot like that with Hook in upper river (late season only), and he caught he first 3 coho of the year in that one spot alone.  Reading water is key to success in mid-river coho fishing.

Coho at flooding water:
lower river: it is pretty hard to even locate the fish, so it is a lower probability spot.  Low visibility makes it hard for the fish to see your lure or bait, and the pools are usually flooded out to disperse most fish.

mid or upper river:  look for small resting channels or flat holding water along the edge of raging water. Fish congregate there to rest briefly.  Drift roe or roe-scented wool with 1 split shot on a small float. In highly coloured water, you pretty much have to put the bait to their nose for them to smell & mouth it. If the float stops, lift the rod lightly.  If feel head-shaking, set the hook.  DO NOT JERK THE ROD at any time to prevent accidental snagging.

Vedder Steelhead:
lower river:  the tail outs of pools & runs will do well in the early morning or late afternoon with role or single egg.  Towards noon, look for steelhead to move up to the top end of pools as they get spooked by fish hook ups or too many stuffs flown at them.  If the top end has deeper riffle flows, that will be perfect.  Spinners & spools will do well there, as they are more inclined to bite something they haven't seen yet. The brighter sky also helps the metals to be more effective.  Pink worm also works well, but I find them more effective later season when the 'trout' steelhead turns off its earlier season favourite feed - drifting loose salmon roe or eggs from spawning salmon.
In high water condition, steelies may move to the side channels, which can give you multiple hook ups.

mid or upper river:  the pools will do well, particularly wide steelhead. If water is high, look for steelhead real close to shore along the rapids in smooth flowing riffle water similar to coho water. Stay back to test out these spots before walking too close to the edge of water.  Use small weight to get a good drift. Many steelies are taken a few feet from shore. If the water is low & clear, watch for a spot below a barrier gravel bar, or barrier shallow run (with  low clear water).  Steelies can pile up in rifle water or deep run before these barrier spots.  Expect multiple hook ups in these kinds of formation.  The top end of some rapids are really good for this.  Steeelie pile up there before ascending the shallow spots to the next pool in the evening.  Walk the river to look for these spots.

Fraser springs (bottom bouncing, no debate here please):
Springs likes deeper spots such as slower pools formed behind points or bends of river (such as the top end of Scale Bar, unfortunately closed now). They also like deeper troughs or trenches formed behind some submerged rocks or gravel drop offs, or with a deep spot with shallow ridge behind it (the mid part of Scale bar with that shallow ridge).  What I usually do to determine these spots is to cast 12 o'clock and count the seconds before the lead bounces.  By selectively casting closer to longer distance, you can form an idea on the depth of water in front of you.  Try different spots along a bar to compare the dropping times to determine the deeper spots.  Also, if during bouncing, the lead momentarily lift off bottom, then bounce again, then you know there is a trench or drop off there.  These deeper spots are your focus for the might springs.  Use smaller hooks (# 1 or 1/O) to get better hook penetration as their tough jaws can bounce off bigger hooks. If you play the spring soft, those smaller hooks will be okay.

Fraser sockeye:
Well, everyone that shows up the river will catch one.  It is no point to highlight good water here.  But there is a technique that will increase your catch efficiency greatly -  whether springs or sockeyes, you will have much more hook ups, particularly springs, if you slowly reel in your line during the bouncing instead of just holding the line.  The reel-in technique will make sure your 10 ft leader & hook is in full tension due to water Resistance by reeling in.  The smaller hook will be much more likely to be sticking instead of bouncing off the tough jaws of the mightily springs.  Also use a little heavier weight if reeling in causes the weight to lift off bottom.

Capilano Coho:
lower river: fish with the tides, from the train bridge up to the highway bridge, usually 1 to 2 hours before & after high tides.  Day light high tides are good for spots from Woodcroft bridge & Nude Rock & down. Mid-night high tides are really good in the morning for deeper pools like Keith Road Pool & Doctor's Pool (right below the highway bridge). Fish with roe in slower water, or wool in riffles & rapids.  Watch for river-blocking by the natives in late June in Park Royal section of the river.  Once they do that, day fishing in this area is toasted.  You will have to fish higher up for fish to get through those barriers at mid-night high tides.

upper river:
Cable Pool, House Rock rapids, Dog Leg Pool are all good with early morning roe fishing, spoons and spinners, also fly fishing.  Beware of flooding water when fishing there

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Fishinglover

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Re: Reading water
« Reply #10 on: November 03, 2011, 04:12:35 PM »

Continue fishing in the saltwater... crabbing, prawning, etc... also fun... :)
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