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Author Topic: Jig Storage  (Read 11228 times)

Noahs Arc

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Re: Jig Storage
« Reply #15 on: October 23, 2016, 11:20:16 AM »

I use loop knot for all jigs wheather twitched or under float. I have not found the knot to be weak.
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Spawn Sack

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Re: Jig Storage
« Reply #16 on: October 23, 2016, 11:47:17 AM »

SSAL, watch this vid. Brian Chan shows how to tie it properly. The knot needs to be tied 100% properly. Make sure your line exits out the correct "hole" in the knot before you pull it tight. As Brian shows the tag end should have a 90 degree bend in it. Also make sure you lubricate the knot (saliva) before you pull it tight, pull it tight slowly, and at the end make sure it's sitting down nice and tight. If it looks not fully seated, push down on the top of the knot a little with your finger nails while tugging a little on the tag end with your teeth or pliers. It should come out looking like a clinch knot with a loop on the bottom.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6t1TIMv-Ok

I assure you this knot is very strong. I've straightened out plenty of #1 and #1/0 jigs on huge chum or springs and the knot never broke with 12lb leader.

If tied correctly it will not fail you.

IMO this knot gives jigs better action than a knot that is tied tight to the jig eye. That being said, I know guys who fish jigs and do not use a loop knot, and they catch a lot of fish too. I really doubt it matters much. But, if you're confident in it like me, I would rig your jigs and flies (if you fly fish) in this manner. 

Lastly I'll say use a quality leader. And there is generally no need to go too light with jigs. I typically use 12lb and if targeting chum or springs I'll bump it up to 15. This is more to prevent their teeth from sawing through my 12lb, not that I need the 3lbs of extra breaking strength.

Unless your fishing is very dialed in and you are looking to step up your game in some very clear water with spooky fish, do n-o-t bother with fluorocarbon leader. Trust me. It is more brittle and if your knots are not tied with extreme care they will bust. I would buy the old standard, maxima ultragreen. Cheaper leader that IMO is still very good: Berkley XT (not XL).

Do not buy some crap noname spool of mono from Walmart for 4 bucks and expect it to fish well. Spend a few more bucks and buy quality line, hooks, swivels, etc.
« Last Edit: October 23, 2016, 11:53:39 AM by Spawn Sack »
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wildmanyeah

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Re: Jig Storage
« Reply #17 on: October 23, 2016, 12:10:09 PM »

SSAL, watch this vid. Brian Chan shows how to tie it properly. The knot needs to be tied 100% properly. Make sure your line exits out the correct "hole" in the knot before you pull it tight. As Brian shows the tag end should have a 90 degree bend in it. Also make sure you lubricate the knot (saliva) before you pull it tight, pull it tight slowly, and at the end make sure it's sitting down nice and tight. If it looks not fully seated, push down on the top of the knot a little with your finger nails while tugging a little on the tag end with your teeth or pliers. It should come out looking like a clinch knot with a loop on the bottom.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6t1TIMv-Ok

I assure you this knot is very strong. I've straightened out plenty of #1 and #1/0 jigs on huge chum or springs and the knot never broke with 12lb leader.

If tied correctly it will not fail you.

IMO this knot gives jigs better action than a knot that is tied tight to the jig eye. That being said, I know guys who fish jigs and do not use a loop knot, and they catch a lot of fish too. I really doubt it matters much. But, if you're confident in it like me, I would rig your jigs and flies (if you fly fish) in this manner. 

Lastly I'll say use a quality leader. And there is generally no need to go too light with jigs. I typically use 12lb and if targeting chum or springs I'll bump it up to 15. This is more to prevent their teeth from sawing through my 12lb, not that I need the 3lbs of extra breaking strength.

Unless your fishing is very dialed in and you are looking to step up your game in some very clear water with spooky fish, do n-o-t bother with fluorocarbon leader. Trust me. It is more brittle and if your knots are not tied with extreme care they will bust. I would buy the old standard, maxima ultragreen. Cheaper leader that IMO is still very good: Berkley XT (not XL).

Do not buy some crap noname spool of mono from Walmart for 4 bucks and expect it to fish well. Spend a few more bucks and buy quality line, hooks, swivels, etc.

Thanks for posting this vid ill be sure to try it out on some other rigs as well!
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DanL

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Re: Jig Storage
« Reply #18 on: October 23, 2016, 12:13:04 PM »

Just my 2 cents but the loop knot is not of much benefit when twitching but certainly cant hurt.

The main reason to use the loop knot for chironomid fishing is to allow the fly to hang perfectly vertical and move freely without being hindered by the knot, and similarly allowing float-fished balanced jigs to hang horizontally without the knot potentially screwing it up.

When twitching there is enough slack in the line that the jig is going to get plenty of action on the drop regardless. Does it get increased action over a regular knot? eh maybe, though I suspect you would be hard pressed to see any difference in success rates.

I find the loop knot to be slightly less durable due to increased abrasion on the loop, not because the knot is weak. Not so much an issue with coho, but more of a risk with bigger fish. Check it regularly and re-tie once in a while if it looks at all compromised and you will be fine.
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Kever

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Re: Jig Storage
« Reply #19 on: October 23, 2016, 12:38:36 PM »

I totally disagree that twitching jigs leads to unavoidable snagging.

Yes, it certainly is possible to foul hook a fish twitching jigs, or casting spoons/spinners, or stripping a fly in, and so on.

However when you twitch a jig you are NOT ripping the line violently, it is more of a light twitch of the rod tip, then lower the rod tip and reel up the slack, then twitch back up. The result is the jig "dances" up and down through the water. Coho often find it irresistible.

I will also add that I have twitched jigs for coho lots and never foul hooked this way. Whereas swinging flies and lures the odd time I'll foul hook a fish.

Good to know, thanks! Guess I'll be trying the twitch next time I hit frog water.
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Sir Snag-A-Lot

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Re: Jig Storage
« Reply #20 on: October 23, 2016, 05:38:00 PM »

Maybe I'm just being sloppy and tying shoddy loop knots.  I'm usually tying onto 10lb Maxima UG mainline, or 8lb leader below a swivel, so I don't think that it's the leader.  Time to watch that video... Thanks!
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scouterjames

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Re: Jig Storage
« Reply #21 on: October 26, 2016, 05:06:36 PM »

I totally disagree that twitching jigs leads to unavoidable snagging.

Yes, it certainly is possible to foul hook a fish twitching jigs, or casting spoons/spinners, or stripping a fly in, and so on.

However when you twitch a jig you are NOT ripping the line violently, it is more of a light twitch of the rod tip, then lower the rod tip and reel up the slack, then twitch back up. The result is the jig "dances" up and down through the water. Coho often find it irresistible.

I will also add that I have twitched jigs for coho lots and never foul hooked this way. Whereas swinging flies and lures the odd time I'll foul hook a fish.

I agree (I don't agree twitching leads to snagging)!! UNLESS of course you're TRYING to snag, like anything else you can.  Properly twitching jigs doesn't lead to snagging anymore than any other type of fishing.
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Spawn Sack

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Re: Jig Storage
« Reply #22 on: November 05, 2016, 10:32:07 PM »

update: ive actually switched from the loop knot for twitching jigs to just a standard improved clinch. It didn't seem to be a problem in past years, but this year ive had a few knots bust at the loop with fish on! It seems that the constant twitching motion was wearing the loop knot out.

I still use the loop knot for float fishing jigs as the knot is no subjected to much wear, and I feel it give the jig better action..

But for twitching I agree it is unnecessary as the twitching its self provides more than enough action, and a loop knot is more likely to fail.

To SSAL who said he is using 10lb mainline and 8lb leader....well, if this works for you awesome, go with it. I don't like line this light for a few reasons. Unless you are fishing a froggy pool for coho, this is a pretty light line combo. 10/8 is not a great separation in breaking strength. If you snag up and try to break your 8lb, good chance you'll snap your 10lb and loose the whole rig. A coho doing the roll will slice through that 8lb pretty fast. A twitching jig is so big and obnoxious 8lb leader is not needed. I think gear this light might be fine for tossing wee lures, or maybe float fishing clear water with a really small presentation. But for twitching a fat jig? I don't like it.

My twitching set up. 20lb braid mainline. Has the diameter of like 6lb mono. Casts like a dream. Small barrel swivel. 3-4 feet of 15lb ultragreen. This leader can handle the teeth from trashing coho, and is good to go if I hook into a chum or spring. I use the same set up for chucking spoons and spinners. Only if the water is really low and clear then I'll do about a 9 foot leader of 10-12lb and connect to the braid with a modified Albright knot.

There is a time and place for light line and gear, and IMO it's not jig twitching.
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