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[Kelso]

Every weekend for the last 8 weekends in a row and sometimes more than one trip per weekend, I have been out on the flow. I read a comment earlier about guys who let their floats drift down on an angle as opposed to being straight up and down. So my question is, are these guys doing something wrong? In some cases it appears they are and others, not?

[TrophyHunter]

Every weekend for the last 8 weekends in a row and sometimes more than one trip per weekend, I have been out on the flow. I read a comment earlier about guys who let their floats drift down on an angle as opposed to being straight up and down. So my question is, are these guys doing something wrong? In some cases it appears they are and others, not?

Generally speaking if the float is sitting at angle their presentation is most likely dragging along the bottom, if the float is sitting straight up and down this means that the person's presentation is being held off of the bottom.. ie shortfloating , sometimes in a strong current the float will slip on it's side but will quickly correct itself..
hope this helps
TR

[Kelso]

Yeah that helps TR, thanks. Looks like I just vindicated myself as well as I tend to keep my float in the up and down position as often as possible depending on current like you said. I see these guys catching way more fish than me using the bottom dragging / bouncing method. Easy to get miffed about it too.

[DionJL]

It depends which way the float is tilted. Ideally the top of your float should be tipped upriver. This will give your entire setup a similar angle and will allow you to detect a strike easiest. This is because a coho will quite often take the bait and turn down river. If your float is at the angle i suggest your float will shoot under the surface quickest.

[BwiBwi]

If the float is at an angle infront of it's presentation then it's most likely the weight is hitting the bottom. If the float is behind then it's short float fishing. However, if the float is behind the bait there is usually too much slack so when hook set it has high chance of popping off.  But if you reel the line in abit. The float will lean towards the fisher a bit, (don't pull too hard though, just a slight pressure) this will allow better hookset.

[bentrod]

In my opinion, if your float is at an angle, you probably don't have enough weight on and the float is too bouyant in the water.  If you weight it more, it will have a more neutral bouyancy and will react to soft strikes better.  If you like to fish with a little weight, get a smaller float.

[Kelso]

Thanks FF,

Almost bought a couple of D & E's yesterday but was little unsure of the sizes to get plus they're like $7.00 each but worth a try. I got an Abu Garcia rod / reel combo as my first gear and now after 6 or 7 weekends in a row I personally feel that maybe the action on the rod is a little stiff for my liking. I think it's a medium / heavy which I'll certainly keep but I'm thinking of a Fenwick with a lighter action or maybe a Berkeley or Shimano Convergence medium action with 12 - 20 lb line rating. Whattya think?

[Fish Assassin]

$7.00 each ? Try Army and Navy, they have the foam ones for couple of bucks each. The balsa ones are about $4.00 each.

[Kelso]

I was thinking of the clear plastic ones. Thx.

[Kelso]

Thanks. It was the Drennans I was thinking about. I could see myself running down the river chasing after one of those puppies ...lol

[glx]

Use a dink float, weight it properly so about an inch of the top is showing above the water.  You will learn how much lead and size of float is needed through trial and error. 

[Kelso]

I picked up a Drennan #3 Piker and a 20 gram DNE. I will experiment with these plus the dynk and stealth on Sat / Sun @ The Cheakamus weather permitting. Never been to the Chehalis, might try that as well.

[glx]

Ive never had a problem with them not being sensitive enough.  When a fish hits they go down, plain and simple.  Another reason I like the foam floats is that they hold a lot of weight.  I went through a Drennan phase, they are sweet floats, just damn expensive when they shatter and they dont hold a lot of weight.  I have not used the D&E floats, so I cant comment on how they perform.  Biggest key with any float is that they are weighted properly.

glx

[glx]

Kelso

With Dink floats, buy the ones that have the line to be fed straight through the float, not the wrap arounds.  Just make sure you have toothpicks to hold it in place.  The nice thing with straight through is that if you buy one 6 inchs long, you can cut it back to whatever size you want which you will let conditions dictate for you. 

[Nicole]

I use those 89 cent straight through foam floats, and I cut them down so only 1 inch (the  red or yellow part for low light) shows above the water line when weighted up. I like option B:



I can't stand the idea of spending 7.00 on a float... Far too cheap for that

I'd rather spend the money on a good roll of flourocarbon...

Cheers,
Nicole