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[Preliator]

I'm just curious what some experienced fly fishers prefer to use to get their fly into the zone on stillwaters.

I was using a floating line the other day with a long leader, and a micro split shot on the end to get the unweighted flies to where I wanted them. I'm positive that it was a result of my lack of smooth casting skills, but I found that my tippet kept getting tangled around my split shot and even caused a fish to break me off at one point. I was thinking of switching to a sink tip, because the full sinking line is difficult to manage in my tube as it gets away from me and slips sub surface. What are your thoughts on this? 

[Matt]

Floating line, long leader is how I prefer fishing when I can.  I use an SA Headstart- the belly is pretty short and heavy so it tosses indicators well and punches well into wind.  Not the most subtle presentations, but the need to present a dry fly subtly seldom arises on lakes.  If Im fishing a moving fly in the 5-10' depth, then I'll fish a Rio Aqualux.  It sinks a little too quick for my liking, so I might try a Cortland Clear Camo line next season.  For fishing deeper than 10' I'll throw on my type 6 and use a floating fly.

[Preliator]

I've been told when fishing chromies with a long leader / indicator to just go with straight mono, as the need for a proper cast and turnover isn't as important. Is this something you'd recommend?  How would you taper a very long leader ?

[roseph]

To taper the leader I just start at the end of the floating line and tie gradually lighter sections of mono together until you get to the desired depth, at which point I'd tie on a swivel then fluoro to the chironomid. 

I have tried, for a more simple approach one long piece of mono to swivel and that works too but it can be tough to turn over.

For anything other than chironomids I also use a slimeline..

[Tex]

I'm just curious what some experienced fly fishers prefer to use to get their fly into the zone on stillwaters.

The BEST line I have ever used, by a long shot, is the Cortland Clear Camo 444.  Easy to cast, supple even in cold conditions (often lines get coils when it gets cold), and I've also noticed my success rate has gone up since I started using it.

Some would attribute the higher levels of success to the line being clear-ish (and hence less spooky to the fish), but I really believe it has more to do with the sink rate.  Clear lines (or "slime lines") are intermediate sinking lines, which means they sink at a very slow rate (about 1 inch per second, I believe).  This puts you in the zone for the entire retrieve (vs. a floating line which often keeps you too shallow, or a full sinking line which you have to retrieve very quickly for fear of sinking too deep).

Even better, this line is ideally suited to trolling slowly while rowing a (pontoon) boat, or kicking in a float tube. You can troll along the edge of the shoal, where most fish spend their time foraging, without snagging up every 2 minutes.  Most shoals are 20' deep or less, and I find this line really hits its stride in 8-15' of water - perfect for trolling along the drop-off.

Good luck!

Tex

PS - as you can see, Matt uses a different technique (type 6 line and floating fly) for a similar depth, so many different ways of achieving the same goal. 

[Rp3Flyfisher]

For a dry line, I use the RIO indicator, but for the line U use the most in Lakes, there is no question, TYPE VI or type VII RIO lake line.


I use a TON of buoyant materials for lakes, so using the Type VI & Type VII is perfect for this style of fishing.

Rick

[drivel]

I'm a big fan of the scientific anglers textured series magnum taper floater with long leaders - usually straight mono - not tapered.  The fly line has a short heavier head that helps deal with those long 20 - 25 foot (or more) leaders without having to have 45 feet of flyline outside the tip, and turns the leader over well.  Cast downwind!

Also the textured series seems to shoot really well, although it does make a little bit of noise i the guides when you double haul or hook a fish.

cheers
d

[Preliator]

Thanks for the info, guys. I was hoping not to need yet another line for my reel in the hopes of upgrading my reel shortly, but it looks like I'm really going to have to broaden my options if I want to catch more fish, consistently. Besides, it would probably be a better idea to upgrade my lines and rod first.

I think for starters, though, I will see how I'm able to manage the long leader on my floating line. What would the sink rate of a long leader roughly be? Also, what is the most important thing when matching up flies with specific lines? I suppose it would essentially be dependent on what exactly one's intentions are?

I'm a big fan of the scientific anglers textured series magnum taper floater with long leaders - usually straight mono - not tapered.  The fly line has a short heavier head that helps deal with those long 20 - 25 foot (or more) leaders without having to have 45 feet of flyline outside the tip, and turns the leader over well.  Cast downwind!

Also the textured series seems to shoot really well, although it does make a little bit of noise i the guides when you double haul or hook a fish.

cheers
d

How is this line when used in rivers?

[Matt]

I've been told when fishing chromies with a long leader / indicator to just go with straight mono, as the need for a proper cast and turnover isn't as important. Is this something you'd recommend?  How would you taper a very long leader ?

No need to bother with tapering much, the fly is going to sink and pull the leader straight anyways...who cares how it lands.

Fishing chironomid, attach maybe 3' of 30lb butt to the tip of your floating line.  Attach a section of 8lbs leader (I use Maxima Ultragreen) to the butt with a triple surgeons knot.  To the end of the leader, attach 4' of fluorocarbon tippet (Seaguar fluoro has high knot strength, which is a weak point with several other brands of fluoro), I normally use 4x (around 6lbs).  If you're fishing a weighted pattern in water deeper than 10' or an unweighted pattern under 10', add several micro split shot to the leader near the connection to the tippet.

When no hatch is happening at the surface, a stationary chironomid about 1' off the bottom works well.  To achieve this presentation, use an indicator placed on the leaders, near the connection to the butt.  During a hatch, retrieve your chironomid slowing maybe 1' per second- basically just fast enough to keep the line straight and not looking like this ~~~~~ on the surface.  When you're retrieving slow, there isn't really a need for an indicator, you'll feel the bite during the retrieve.

Using split shot, your leader hangs pretty straight up and down, so make your leader the depth of the water less a foot.  Alter the length of the 8lbs Maxima UG to achieve the depth.  You can experiment with depth by repositioning the indicator on the leader, but it casts best with the indicator near the butt.

[Preliator]

Very informative, Matt. I will definitely have to try this approach before purchasing an intermediate line. How important is it to be anchored while doing this? I'm actually thinking about bringing it regardless just so I can count my depth as I drop it down, to make sure I properly get my presentation just off the bottom.

[trout80]

Clear intermediate sink line works well for me.

[Matt]

Very informative, Matt. I will definitely have to try this approach before purchasing an intermediate line. How important is it to be anchored while doing this? I'm actually thinking about bringing it regardless just so I can count my depth as I drop it down, to make sure I properly get my presentation just off the bottom.

Very important to be double anchored- one at the bow, one at the stern to hold your position.  To properly anchor in, say, 15' of water, let out maybe 20-30' of anchor line and row backwards until the bow anchor line is taut.  Now, drop your stern anchor straight down, then snug up the bow anchor line until the stern line is also taut.

You can get away with one anchor on a float tube and use your flippers to prevent spinning, but you'd be at a bit of a disadvantage compared to a proper boat or pontoon.

Knowing the depth of the water your fishing is obviously important as a fly fished within 2' of the bottom will often outfish a fly outside of that bottom layer and a fly lying on the bottom will simply foul.  Remember where you're casting may not be the same depth as where you're anchored.  Fishing on a shelf  in the lake is easiest (ie: constant depth shoal) as you're likely to stay within that bottom layer as your fly drifts around in the wind.  You can either mark the anchor line every couple feet, or buy a cheap sounder (~$100 used).

[drivel]

Preliator,

I have not tried the magnum textured line in rivers.  I suspect it will require a very delicate touch to cast small dries accurately and gently, but for roll casting/indicator fishing with weighted flies, i think it will be very servicable.

On the other hand, for casting pike flies in northern rivers - awesome.

[Preliator]

Very important to be double anchored- one at the bow, one at the stern to hold your position.  To properly anchor in, say, 15' of water, let out maybe 20-30' of anchor line and row backwards until the bow anchor line is taut.  Now, drop your stern anchor straight down, then snug up the bow anchor line until the stern line is also taut.

You can get away with one anchor on a float tube and use your flippers to prevent spinning, but you'd be at a bit of a disadvantage compared to a proper boat or pontoon.

Knowing the depth of the water your fishing is obviously important as a fly fished within 2' of the bottom will often outfish a fly outside of that bottom layer and a fly lying on the bottom will simply foul.  Remember where you're casting may not be the same depth as where you're anchored.  Fishing on a shelf  in the lake is easiest (ie: constant depth shoal) as you're likely to stay within that bottom layer as your fly drifts around in the wind.  You can either mark the anchor line every couple feet, or buy a cheap sounder (~$100 used).

For now I will be using a float tube, so I will try that approach to anchor myself as properly as possible. I haven't looked at depth finder technology in years - is there anything available that can be used on a tube, or will the count down method be my best option for locating depth?

[Rp3Flyfisher]

For now I will be using a float tube, so I will try that approach to anchor myself as properly as possible. I haven't looked at depth finder technology in years - is there anything available that can be used on a tube, or will the count down method be my best option for locating depth?

There are a few different options when it comes to depth finders for float tubes.

You can pick up small portable hand held ones at most of the local shops, most of them work off using a larger piece of foam the acts as a large float for the transducer.

Here is one for $88 at Walmart called a Hawkeye.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/HawkEye-Portable-Fish-Finder/3661652

The Humminbird Piranha Max 230 (What I use) is GREAT, but it is a bit larger so it would take up one entire pocket on the tube and you will have to make something up for the trasnducer as the suction cup mount won"t work.
http://www.fishfinder-store.com/piranhamax-230-portable.html

The is also the Fishing Buddy, Great sounder for a good price and you can bu the Float tube attachment for it as well.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/5/SportsRec/Fishing/FishFinders/PRDOVR~0793801P/Hummingbird+120+Fishin%27+Buddy.jsp?locale=en

http://www.amazon.com/Humminbird-Fishin-Buddy-Float-Strap/dp/B0012IVHA6

There are many others out there, just go check out your local shop, I know that Wholesale Sports in Langley carries at least 3-4 that would work in a tube.

Rick