Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[RalphH]

A little off topic, but what would be an ideal fly line to use for pinks in the vedder?

I mostly fish a clear intermediate tip (10 to 15 feet). A clear intermediate works as well. Some people fish a pattern with tungsten beads or barbells eyes on a floating line with a leader of 9 feet or longer.

A #6 to #8 rod and line is best.

Pinks will react to a fly as in they'll swim to and grab a swung fly and chase retrieved flies.

[HOOK]

tips for where ? you need to be more specific because I will use anything from a clear sink tip all the way to T11 depending on the depth and/or speed of the current

you wanna cover all your bases then so buy these

floater, clear tip, type 3, type 6 - These come in a wallet set from Rio and will save you over buying them individually

type 8 is sold separately now, it used to come in the package but they changed it a couple years ago

12-15 foot chunks of T11, T14 - you could also get T8 but it sinks the same as the type 6 so there really is no point in having two tips do cover the same water column

I would buy the T tip though because T (tungsten) sink tip material comes on bulk spools so its a lot cheaper and you can get it cut to whatever length you want. the # designation is NOT the sink rate, it IS the amount of grains per foot (#11 - 11 grains per foot)

here are the sink rates for the T# tip material



here are the sink rates for the "type" tips. note that the # designation IS the sink rate

Clear = 1.5-2inches/second
type 3 = 3-4 inches/second
type 6 = 6-7inches/second
type 8 = 8-9inches/second

Im sure the sink rates for ALL these materials is done in water that is not moving so don't expect them to sink this fast in moving water however it will be somewhat close especially when you mend properly it may even sink faster as the current helps pull it down.


I hope that is enough info for you guys 

[Spawn Sack]

nice fish Zabber !


Spawn Sack - all your questions just confused me............which means I think you may be over thinking things and possibly confusing yourself. Your line is a FULL LINE intermediate sink line ?     if so then yes you only need to add a leader, tie a DSL into one end and loop/loop it together then just tie your fly to the other end. salmon fishing you never need leaders over 6-8feet, what this means is you don't have to bother using tapered leaders because they will turn over being so short.

Now if your line is a DRY line then you will want to add a sink tip. loop/loop  connect the sink tip to your dry line, add a butt section of heavy mono to the opposite end of the sink tip, tie a DSL loop into one end of your leader and loop/loop it to your butt section then just tie on your fly

If your using a full intermediate sink line for river fishing your probably working harder than you need to unless you have a stripping basket that is. I say this because your line laying in the water will sink making it tougher to get it up/out of the water to cast, This will cause you to make more false casts and fatiguing your shoulder. If you use a dry line with a sink tip most guys make 1 or 2 false casts and then "shoot" whats left, if you have a basket then 1 false cast is enough because there is no resistance on the stripped in line meaning it will go like gang busters

If you really want you can try adding a swivel but like you said 25lb test wont knot through a tiny swivel which means you'll need a size10 or larger which WILL add weight to where its tied in and could cause your fly to travel strangely. On lakes we only use swivels when fishing under indicators for 3 reasons, adds weight to get down faster, adds weight to keep your presentation straight up/down, adds weight to keep your presentation "in the zone" when fishing windy days or if you finger roll your fly in


don't cut off the loops on your fly lines, they make life easier. only line I would cut if off would be a CLEAR sink line

HOOK, sorry for the confusion. So let's see...the line I am using is Rio "Cold Water Series" Outbound WF8F/I 330g (1.5-2ips). It was reccomended to me by the guys at the fly shop for summer fishing clear water for pinks, coho, etc. I don't add a sinking tip to it. Just my leader via a loop to loop connection, then a NSLKnot to my fly.

http://www.rioproducts.com/fly-lines/saltwater/coldwater/outbound/

In the past I've normally bought 9 foot tapered leaders and added more tippet (8lb or so) when needed.

I guess what I'm wondering is:

1- Best loop knot? I find the DSL easiest to tie. I can do the perfection loop knot but find it a bit of a pain. I've heard the PL is a better knot. Opinions?

2- Should I run a straight piece of mono from my mainline, or first use a thicker piece of butt then double (or tripple?) surgeons knot to a thinner piece of 10lb or whatever? My inclination would be to use a couple feet of 15lb mono and add 3-4 feet of 10lb or so tippet via a blootknot or surgeon's knot.

I'm going to read back a page or two on this thread as this may have already been answered

[aquaholic]

Pink flies that work

Mainly for the Island when I go in a couple days for 3 weeks



Gurgler Dry Flies for Pinks/Coho





More beach flies







Selection of bucktails to drag behind the boat for coho

[HOOK]

Ssypark - if there is already a loop at the end of your fly line then just tie a Double surgeons in your leader and loop/loop it together then add your fly. Don't bother with those tapered leaders, for river fishing you never need more than 8feet of leader fly fishing and usually no more than 6' so you can use a straight piece of 8 or 10lb mono without any issues. I believe the breaking strength of the Perfection and double surgeons are very good and actually almost identical. I have never had a DS loop break on me yet.

If you really must add a butt section between your fly line and your leader I would use something like 20-25lb stiff mono (ultragreen) however it will need a loop at BOTH ends which just leaves you with a lot of knots in a short distance trying to hinge against your tip top rod eye, you don't want this which is why I don't bother. the core of your fly line should be a breaking strength of 20-30lb anyhow so your leader will break long before your line does. I never go above 10lb test when im fly fishing, even for springs. I want leader line light enough the fish cant see it easily, has good holding power, can take some teeth, casts/turns over nicely and stuff I can break if I get hung up or if a fish is way to hot to turn


FYI - your going to want a line that sinks faster than that for a lot of the places we fish for salmon. This is why guys use versa-tip systems instead of full integrated or full sink lines. even when im fishing stagnant frog water I usually am using my type 3 which sinks twice as fast as your line and I use beadhead flies

[Ssypark]

Ssypark - if there is already a loop at the end of your fly line then just tie a Double surgeons in your leader and loop/loop it together then add your fly. Don't bother with those tapered leaders, for river fishing you never need more than 8feet of leader fly fishing and usually no more than 6' so you can use a straight piece of 8 or 10lb mono without any issues. I believe the breaking strength of the Perfection and double surgeons are very good and actually almost identical. I have never had a DS loop break on me yet.

If you really must add a butt section between your fly line and your leader I would use something like 20-25lb stiff mono (ultragreen) however it will need a loop at BOTH ends which just leaves you with a lot of knots in a short distance trying to hinge against your tip top rod eye, you don't want this which is why I don't bother. the core of your fly line should be a breaking strength of 20-30lb anyhow so your leader will break long before your line does. I never go above 10lb test when im fly fishing, even for springs. I want leader line light enough the fish cant see it easily, has good holding power, can take some teeth, casts/turns over nicely and stuff I can break if I get hung up or if a fish is way to hot to turn


FYI - your going to want a line that sinks faster than that for a lot of the places we fish for salmon. This is why guys use versa-tip systems instead of full integrated or full sink lines. even when im fishing stagnant frog water I usually am using my type 3 which sinks twice as fast as your line and I use beadhead flies

Thanks for the tips but i dont remember posting anything about this maybe you mean to reply to someone else?

[HOOK]

Ha ha Sorry that was to Spawn Sack. I get distracted by kids and forget what the hell im doing/writing a lot. I think that write up actually took me close to 20mins for that reason alone


Aquaholic - what do you call that bare hook fly ?

I know they use bare red hooks for sockeye up north fly fishing

[aquaholic]

The fly is called None of your buisness and they're Used for tube flies hahaha j/k

[Spawn Sack]

Ha ha Sorry that was to Spawn Sack. I get distracted by kids and forget what the hell im doing/writing a lot. I think that write up actually took me close to 20mins for that reason alone


Aquaholic - what do you call that bare hook fly ?

I know they use bare red hooks for sockeye up north fly fishing

HOOK, thanks for the tips man!!! I find the D/S much easier to tie so I'll stick with that one. You also made a good point about not using too strong a leader in case you need to snap the fly off. I'll experiment with a thicker butt + lighter tip vs. just a straight piece of mono and decide what I like best.

Any reason why connecting the butt to the leader with a blood knot (my choice) or double/tripple surgeon's knot instead of loop-to-looping them together? I suppouse the loop-to-loop would be good if the leader got trashed you could quick connect a new one if you had some pre-tied.

Also have you ever tired flouro for this application instead of mono? Apparently the flouro sinks better and is more abrasion resistant. I'm not a huge fan for river usage as I find it's too brittle. I have crap loads kicking around in various breaking strengths (most was given to me or I won) but I find myself favoring ultragreen or other high end mono instead. For still waters I prefer flouro tippet as I feel it gives me an edge.

[Spawn Sack]

FYI - your going to want a line that sinks faster than that for a lot of the places we fish for salmon. This is why guys use versa-tip systems instead of full integrated or full sink lines. even when im fishing stagnant frog water I usually am using my type 3 which sinks twice as fast as your line and I use beadhead flies

I don't mean any disrespect but...I described in detail the type of water I was looking to fish (mainly low/clear late summer/fall for pinks + coho etc) to the staff at Sea Run and the 330g is what they reccomended. It is possible it is not getting down enough, but I do catch fish with this set up. I mainly fish slow runs with it like the Vedder canal, etc.

Is there any way to add weight to this set up if I wanted to try and get deeper? I've need heard of adding a sink tip to such a line. I've seem on TV guys adding split shot to their leader but I'd be worried about throwing crap cast and busting my rod tip.

I've looked at the Rio versitip package and almost bought one, but I am looking at getting into spey fishing so I think I'll save up my $ for that instead of sinking more into the single hand set up. I like single hand fly fishing but I find river weight rods + tips etc a bit aggrevating for an old shoulder injury. Sounds like the 2 handed rod will spread the workload out a lot and save my shoulder a lot of grief. For now will be sticking to the S/H rod, come winter I'll be looking at spey setups for steelhead

[MoeJKU]

I don't know if its me being me, but i usually tie the same fly, and size in 3 or 4 different colors of pink. Some days they smash different ones. well thats what it seems anyways.

[brandooner]

Awesome! Thanks alot Hook!!

[RalphH]

tips for where ? you need to be more specific because I will use anything from a clear sink tip all the way to T11 depending on the depth and/or speed of the current

you wanna cover all your bases then so buy these

he said the Vedder. Fast and super fast tips have their place but I've seen too many people spending the day unintentionally snagging fish  and loosing flies on the bottom 'cause they use type 6 tips. Remember the water is usually very low at that time.  An intermediate does best most of the time on most of the water I fish.

[HOOK]

Yes I get that however is a line with tips not better suited than a straight sinking line especially if your river fishing ?

I said I will use different tips in different water. If im coho fishing its usually my clear or type 3 but sometimes you need the type 6 if the water comes up or in the deeper areas, even in the canal.

Moejku - I seldom ever use pink flies in the Vedder. in clear water pinks will take anything put in front of their face if presented properly. I actually find more subtle flies work better and have the added bonus of also catching coho and jack springs

SS - using a loop with your butt section means only having to cut your actually fly line/sink tip every few years to replace the butt section. If you knot the butt to your leader then every time you need a new leader you will be cutting the butt section shorter and then cutting the fly line to add a new butt. Leaders get damaged very often salmon fishing so you will do this many times each season. I do what I can to get the most from my expensive things. Why spend $70+ on a fly line to start chopping it back ? The mono butt section on my tips just got replaced this year after not having been done in probably 5yrs, lost a total of 1" from my sink tip

I used to tie my leader to a butt section without loops and found I chopped about a foot off per season easily, If you lose an inch or two each time it adds up fast

[RalphH]

Yes I get that however is a line with tips not better suited than a straight sinking line especially if your river fishing ?

I mostly fish a clear intermediate tip (10 to 15 feet). A clear intermediate works as well. Some people fish a pattern with tungsten beads or barbells eyes on a floating line with a leader of 9 feet or longer.

A #6 to #8 rod and line is best.

Pinks will react to a fly as in they'll swim to and grab a swung fly and chase retrieved flies.

that was why I suggested a tip.

I have been quite happy with a straight intermediate where the water suits as well.