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[mvelasco]

Can you or anyone speculate why the regular clinch would be better than the improved clinch for flouro? Not doubting just curious why this may be.

Just to make sure it's not the improved clinch you're doing here is a link to it.

http://www.netknots.com/fishing_knots/improved-clinch-knot/

I've heard some people refer to an improved clinch as a clinch knot, when in fact a clinch knot does not have the extra step at the end of passing the line through twice before tightening.

well I stand corrected its the improved clinch im using...always thought the imptoved clinch was where you pass the line through the eye twice to and then do the wraps

[Spawn Sack]

Thank you for clairifying mvelasco. As I'm sure you realize a standard clinch knot is just 5 or however many wraps then through the eye - done. Whereas the improved clinch passes the line through 2 loops as in the net knots video. Depending on how it's tied pasing the line through the swivel/lure eye twice can we the trilene knot or if it's finished like a uni knot it's often called the fish-n-fool knot.

Anyway I'll try an improved clinch with some Seaguar Blue label and hope that the knot busting issues I have been experiencing as a result of the crap Berkley Vanish flouro I've been using.

For braid IMO palomar is #1 for line to lure/swivel. I've found the imp.clinch can slip out. For braid attaching to mono modified albright is #1 IMO. I used to use a double uni knot but the M/I seem to have better breaking strength.

If anyone is thinking of buying Berkley Vansish F/C I would say don't bother I've tried several knots with it and yes I lube them well, tighten them slowly, and make sure they are sitting perfect at the end before I clip the tag end and STILL I've been busting off 10 and 12lb like it's fly tying thread. Totall crap line.

[Jeff_]

I had some 6lb vanish that I used for trout fishing, in my experience it really does have poor knot strength. I broke off quite a few hooks even when using a light hookset with circle hooks. I use the improved clinch knot for almost all applications with mono/flouro. My experience with seaguar has been quite good, I've dragged it through sharp rocks/ barnacles and it has frayed but never broken off.

[wonder]

So you don't pass it through one more time like the improved clinch? Just a regular clinch hey? You're the second person to mention this so I'm going to try it out.

Are you using the SeaGuar Blue label? Apparently that's their best leader line but gawd it's expensive

ya ive never been a fan of the "improved" clinch knot i find i cant quite do it perfect to not get a little wrinkle in the leader, i use the blue its pricey tho like 13$ for 25yds.. been good for me this year over 10 coho on 3 trips.

[Sandman]

well I stand corrected its the improved clinch im using...always thought the imptoved clinch was where you pass the line through the eye twice to and then do the wraps

You're referring to the Trilene knot.

[bunnta]

trilene knot for me. Blue label seaguar, just wet your god damn line and u will never break off unless ur really horsing in the fish. Either my mainline breaks or bait loop knot breaks whenever i snag up on something which is NOT cool. Proves how strong the damn knot is and i can go weeks on the same leader without breaking even after 30springs....the abrasion resistance is top notch compare to mono.

[gman]

After lots of problems I now have consistent success with fluorocarbon by:
- lubing the line as I tighten the know (I actually dip the line in water)
- use 12 pound fluoro - lighter was not reliable for me on the Vedder, even on coho
I now use the fluorocarbon leaders all the time, no matter water clarity weather etc

[Suther]

trilene knot for me. Blue label seaguar, just wet your god damn line and u will never break off unless ur really horsing in the fish. Either my mainline breaks or bait loop knot breaks whenever i snag up on something which is NOT cool. Proves how strong the damn knot is and i can go weeks on the same leader without breaking even after 30springs....the abrasion resistance is top notch compare to mono.

Isn't your leader supposed to break before your main line?

[bunnta]

Isn't your leader supposed to break before your main line?

exactly......my mainline has always been the weakest link. i never break off at the knot on the mainline it breaks off somewhere else where it has been frayed or chip when i don't pay attention lol. and yes my mainline is heavier than my leader...i always question it but i always know the reason why it snap and why i am always lazy to fix it

[Suther]

exactly......my mainline has always been the weakest link. i never break off at the knot on the mainline it breaks off somewhere else where it has been frayed or chip when i don't pay attention lol. and yes my mainline is heavier than my leader...i always question it but i always know the reason why it snap and why i am always lazy to fix it

sounds like you need stronger main line then... It was always my understanding the whole reason you have a leader (or at least one of them) is so you only lose it, and not big hunks of main line. Fishing line isn't exactly the best thing to be leaving in the rivers/lakes, it can be hazardous to the fish and it creates something else to get snagged on.

[Spawn Sack]

sounds like you need stronger main line then... It was always my understanding the whole reason you have a leader (or at least one of them) is so you only lose it, and not big hunks of main line. Fishing line isn't exactly the best thing to be leaving in the rivers/lakes, it can be hazardous to the fish and it creates something else to get snagged on.

Yes your leader "should" break and not the mainline, but the odd time, much to my annoyance , my mainline will snap off. Likely reason is the mainline had a nick or weakness somewhere and I had a new fresh leader on. I generally try to run a leader at least 5lb less than my mainline eg. 17lb mainline and max 12lb leader. After a day of hard fishing I usually cut 5-10 feel of my mainline and retie everything so nice fresh mainline is conencted to the swivel. Usually the piece I cut off feels a bit rough and I'm sure is at less that it's rated break strength. I started using Pline CXX-Xtra strong mainline this year after a lot of guys on this forum reccomended it and IMO it is tougher that Maxima UG and seems to be more resistant to fading/hazing. By now I'd be on my second spool of UG but I'm still using the spool of CXX I put on my reel at the start of the season and it still looks and performs great. Will change out before steelhead season though

Thanks for the tips on flouro and knots guys! I threw that damn Berkley in the TRASH just so I'm not tempted to cheap out and use it. Gonna pick up some Blue Label before I go out next time. I'll report back with my results.

[liketofish]

Since we are discussing fluorocarbon here, perhaps a meeting of the minds of the fluro pros can enlighten the members here:
1) If you use braided main line, do you find using a length of fluorocarbon where the float is (between braided line and the swivel to the leader) helps with more hookups besides just using fluorocarbon leader?
2) Since fish cannot see fluorocarbon, do you find using lighter fluro leaders give you more hooks than heavier one, like 10 lb compared to 12 or 15lb fluro leader? Since you can hook a spring at times when you target coho, it may be less likely to lose your leader and hook on a heavier leader than a light one. But this is only beneficial if using heavier leader does not affect hookups.
3) Since fish cannot see fluorocarbon, does the leader length matter? Say 12" compared to 18 or 24 or 36"? Do you find any advantage with extra long fluorocarbon leader?
4) Do you find anything other than Seaguard Blue Label reliable? I use 20lb Blue Label for that 6 ft length between my braided power pro and the swivel so my float is sliding on this length. I often wonder if using mono for this length can affect hooking efficiency as I mention in point 1). Blue label is expensive. Do you find other brand adequate besides the obvious junky Varnish?

[zap brannigan]

Use mono for above the swivel its cheaper, as for heavier flouro I use 10-12 find it no different than using 8lb either than peice of mind as for leader length i go a little longer so the gish arent spooked by the weights but with a longer leader sometimes quick bites arent picked up, also I've found the 100% flouro stren line to be pretty good as well.

[Ian Forbes]

For some strange reason that I can't explain, I have more breakoffs with a double Clinch knot when using fluorocarbon than I do with a single Clinch knot. But, I am fanatical in making sure the knot is well moistened and tightened completely. With mono I always use a double Clinch knot because a single Clinch knot will usually slip. That doesn't seem to happen with fluorocarbon. And, unlike mono, a simple over-hand knot doesn't seem to weaken fluorocarbon too much.

[skaha]

--I'm not a fan of fluoro but I use it.
--As i do not use it often I buy the best I can find.
--For Fly fishing I am usually using it with spookey fish clear water.
--Stiff so can helps using smaller diameter to turn over a fly with tapered leader.
--Sinks for use in deep water chironomid fishing.

--What I don't like about it.... knot break is an issue... even with the best line... little mistake in tying on my part and it will fail... I compensate by always giving it a good tug before using so hopefully any mistake stays in the boat or on shore.
--It doesn't break down when exposed to the elements well so if you do lose some it will be out there for a long while
--It is very toxic process to make so only a few factories world wide make it. Workers need to be seperated from all fumes which is costly.. that is what scares me with manufacture in countries that have weak worker rights or environmental law... Japan and Germany seem to have the best record for producing for top brands in a safe enviroment. But some are hard to trace where they come from.

--What I am saying is when I can stand the guilt of using it,  I use it sparingly and explore other options first.