Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Long_Cast]

For those who use snap swivels, how do you attach it to your lure?

If your lure has a built-in swivel, do you remove it or use it with your snap swivel?

If your lure has a built-in split ring, do you remove it or use it with your snap swivel?

In my opinion, lures with a built-in split ring and a swivel (common with Gibbs lures) makes lures appear a tad longer. That could be a good or bad thing when used with a snap swivel. I like my lures to appear just a tad smaller, as I've caught most of my large fish in rivers with smaller lures; therefore, I prefer the swivel removed from lure when attaching it to a snap swivel.



 

[RyanB]

If you want your lure to appear smaller, use a smaller lure.

I use a snap swivel with spinners.  I also use swivels on my sliding float rigs to prevent line twist.  For me, line twist means use a swivel.

I use just a snap with everything else or tie it directly on the line.  Changing the lure changes the action of the lure, which is fine if you believe your modifications catch more fish. 

[Long_Cast]

Personally, I find the true benefit of a snap swivel is the convenience of easily changing lures without cutting the line and retying. I still get line twist even with snap swivels with a built-in swivel with lures. True, one will get less line twist with a snap swivel, but line twist will always happen during a fishing trip for those who cast and retrieve lures, especially spinners and spoons.

The only lures that I haven't experienced line twist are 3 inch and up Zzingers and Buzz Bombs and rarely with floating and mid-running Rapalas.

[Outdoorsman]

I don't really use my spin cast set up too much....but when I do, all I've done is just run my main line (8 pound mono) down to a small snap swivel, and then right to my lure...haven't had any problems that way. About 15 coho or so this season that way, and that's not pulling out the spin cast too much.

[Min]

For spinning or trolling I just tie the line onto the snap swivel.

As far as the bits that come with the spoons etc., I take off the extras and connect with the snap.

[milo]

Use a ball bearing snap swivel and don't worry about line twist ever again.

They are worth every penny.

[TheChumWhisperer]

Use a ball bearing snap swivel and don't worry about line twist ever again.

They are worth every penny.

X2..

[Long_Cast]

X2..

I use Sampo ball bearing snap swivels, and I still get line twist, like once every 30-50 casts.

[rustybee]

Like others before me have mentioned, I use snap swivels for convenience in swapping lures (which are attached to ball bearing snap swivels to prevent line twist).

[Suther]

Use a ball bearing snap swivel and don't worry about line twist ever again.

They are worth every penny.

Even a crane swivel is a big step up on a barrel swivel. Barrel swivels don't twist very well under load. If you look,  crocs (and probably others) use crane swivels.

[Spawn Sack]

How I USED to do it:

-With spoons like Gibbs Crocs that have a split ring and crane swivel from the factory I would tie it right to my mainline and fish it like this with no issues. However each time you want to try a new lure you have to cut + retie

-With spinners that have a swivel built into it I would tie right to the mainline same as above with no issues.

-With spinners like Blue Fox I would tie right to the mainline with no swivel, however at times I noticed I was getting some line twist.

How I do it NOW:

-On my one spinning rod that has 12 mono mainline. I tie a crane swivel to the mainline and then connect a DUO-LOCK to the swivel. This is basically the same as using a snap swivel but IMO the duo lock is much stronger than a snap swivel. On all my spoons I REMOVED the split ring and swivel. I just put the big end of the duo-lock though the eye of the spoon, close, and ready to fish. If I want to swap lures which I do often it takes 2 seconds.

-On my other spinning rod that has 20lb Suffix braid as the mainline I don't want the braid connected right to the lure (scare the fish IMO). So I put a bead through the braid that won't go through the top eyelet, then tie the braid to a crane/barrel swivel, then run a 3ish foot mono leader, then put JUST a duo-lock at the end of the leader (no need for a swivel as well as there is one on the mainline). Then, like above, I just snap/un-snap the duo-lock to change lures.

With this set up I like that I NEVER have to cut line and tie knots. Oh and if I have a spinner with a swivel built in to it I cut it out with a pair of side cutters.

To some this may seem overly complicated but I like tinkering with my gear and finding way to fish smarter, not harder

[bigblue]

I make my own snap swivel by attaching a duo lock (normally #3) to a crane or roller swivel (normally #7). When I am putting them together, I check every crane or roller swivel to make sure they spin well. You would be surprised at how many stiff swivels there are in a pack of new swivels. Any stiff swivels are best thrown away as they will likely cause line twists. For spoons, the top ring and swivels are all removed. After doing this, I have rarely had any line twists while spinning for cohos.

[Spawn Sack]

I make my own snap swivel by attaching a duo lock (normally #3) to a crane or roller swivel (normally #7). When I am putting them together, I check every crane or roller swivel to make sure they spin well. You would be surprised at how many stiff swivels there are in a pack of new swivels. Any stiff swivels are best thrown away as they will likely cause line twists. For spoons, the top ring and swivels are all removed. After doing this, I have rarely had any line twists while spinning for cohos.

Exact same way I do it. Never thought to "check" the swivel before I use it I just assumed they would all function the same. I'll try to remmeber to do this down the road.