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[4TheKids]

I switched to braid for Springs and Chum last fall and I have been very happy with it. So I have decided to keep it on for Steelhead season. But I am concerned about its high visibility; it isn’t stealthy.

I was fishing today and this guy nails a beautiful 12 pounder right behind me. He had mono/pink wool. I had braid/blade. Both setups were being fishing correctly. Although the terminal gear was different, I am thinking the braid had more to do with it. Comments?

[Spawn Sack]

Tying braid straight to your metal (spoon, spinner) is ok if the water is colored, even for steelhead. However I never do this as I find if that metal gets snagged up it's a real bugger to break!! Even the 20lb I run is like trying to break a cloths line (ok maybe an exaggeration, but you get the idea).

I like to rig mine one of two ways:

1- Water fairly clear to very clear (I never fish metal in super murky water, IMO fish can't find it), going for fish not overly leader shy. I put a bead bigger than the top eyelet (so you can't reel it through) through the braid, then knot (I prefer the palomar for braid) the line to a barrel swivel. From there run a 3ish foot mono or flouro (I go mono usually 12 or 15lb Maxima UG) to the lure. I persoanlly take the split ring and swivel OFF the spoon and attach a duo-lock swivel to the end of the leader, then I can just snap and unsnap to swap out the spoon/spinner. No need to cut line and retie.

2- Water clear to very clear and leader shy fish (mainly coho for me). I tie 10 feet or so of mono to the braid using a modifed albright knot. The a barrel swivel and duo-lock to the end of the leader. Similar to above only the braid is far away from the fish and less of a chance of spookinhg them that #1.

[4TheKids]

Sorry, I should have mentioned I had a 2 ft leader of fluro and he had a ~1.5 ft leader of mono.

I have tried knotting a 10 ft mono "shock" line to the braid but the Chums made short work of my knots. I was using a double uni so it could go through the guides. I think the braid cuts the mono. I don't mind losing a Chum or two to knot failure but I am not going to lose a steely to knot failure.

Thanks for the comments.

[HOOK]

use the Albright knot.

double the mono and wrap the braid around it. this way it wont cut, it will also be a smaller knot this way than tying it the other way

my buddy does his with double nail knots on either side of the overlap (2 of mono side, 2 on braid side) and it hasn't failed ........... yet

[wookie]

My knots never fail, Hook, NEVER!! 
You know this.

[wookie]

if you use a nail knot, use double the wraps for the braided line as you would the mono

Ex) four wraps for the mono knot, and eight for the braided knot.  Once tied, just pull them together and you are good to go.

modified Albright works well too, but I'm a nail knot whore all the way

[Spawn Sack]

Forthkids, if you have a smartphone download the app "knot wars." Lots of good videos on knots, etc. Also the website www.netknots.com has some good stuff. I used to use the uni-to-uni for braid to mono with decent results. I heard of the modified albright on this site and gave it a try for the same purpose. I like it as lot better. It's easier to tie I find, shoots through the rod guides better, and I haven't had one break yet with a fish on.

IMO my method #1 is stronger as both lines are tied to a swivel and not each other. Just DONT use a regular clinch or improved clinch with braid! If you don't know a good braid knot research them and pick one you find easy to tie. I like the palomar for braid and it tests at or close to 100% of the breaking strength of the line and is easy to tie. There are other good ones like the berkley braid knot, burke knot, etc. Personally I find them a pain to tie.

For the mono to swivel I like the improved clinch.

If you don't want your lure anywhere near your braid then go with the 10ish foot leader and the albright knot. Like I said I only use this in very clear water mostly for coho. Most of the time if fishing metal I go with setup #1 as I have more confidence in it's breaking strength.

[RalphH]

the Yucatan knot is also very good to attach braid to mono or fluorocarbon.You can find that knot on netknots.com.
I doubt that the braid made a difference in that case buy if you have a bright braid like Tufline xp you can switch to a duller green or olive line. However it was more than likely dumb luck or chance that made the difference.

[TROY B]

The only way to do it is the double Uni knot also know as the double nail knot!!

[clarki]

Although the terminal gear was different, I am thinking the braid had more to do with it. Comments?

I highly doubt it. More likely the fish was not in an aggressive mood, and the pink wool tickled his fancy more than your blade.

[bigblockfox]

I highly doubt it. More likely the fish was not in an aggressive mood, and the pink wool tickled his fancy more than your blade.

x2, timing is everything

[Noahs Arc]

How did this turn into a discussion about knots?
To the OP, just keep flogging whatever you're confident in.
Confidence is paramount!

[Spawn Sack]

Sorry, I should have mentioned I had a 2 ft leader of fluro and he had a ~1.5 ft leader of mono.

I have tried knotting a 10 ft mono "shock" line to the braid but the Chums made short work of my knots. I was using a double uni so it could go through the guides. I think the braid cuts the mono. I don't mind losing a Chum or two to knot failure but I am not going to lose a steely to knot failure.

Thanks for the comments.

[4TheKids]

How did this turn into a discussion about knots?
To the OP, just keep flogging whatever you're confident in.
Confidence is paramount!

It turned in to a discussion about knots because my poor knots were preventing me from using a 10 ft shock line. If I had used a shock line, visibility would not be a consideration. I found the above suggestions very helpful.

I am sure of my terminal gear. In the morning I fish walking up with roe then fish with something that spins (usually a Colorado Blade) walking back.

About 30 seconds apart, that fish had a good look at my blade and a good look at the wool. Given the flow, the conditions, and the time of day, the blade seemed a better choice. That is why I am puzzled and that is why I posted. Regardless, the only thing that can really answer the question is now dead. Congrats to the other guy, it was a beautiful fish.

[Ian Forbes]

I never tie braid directly to anything but a swivel. I don't tie fluoro to mono, either, no matter what the knot. Don't worry about swivels. Neither trout (include steelhead), nor salmon care if a swivel is on the line, unless you are using dry flies.

What steelhead will bite is entirely up to them. There is no scientific explanation. They will grab the silliest stuff you ever saw. As a general rule, fresh fish are more aggressive than ones that have been holding in a pool for a few days. Summer-run steelhead are far more aggressive than winter steelhead. Steelhead on the move do not bite, but the moment they stop to rest they are fair game. That is true even for fish that move throughout the same pool. I've watched happen many times in canyon pools.

I've seen steelhead take the tiniest of single eggs in preference to fresh steelhead roe. I've seen them take a tiny, salmon fry pattern and yet refuse a perfectly presented egg pattern. Again, as a general rule, a spinner or spoon is usually more effective than bait for summer-run steelhead early in the season, but will prefer bait later in the fall.

There is too much for just one reply. That is why people write books.