Weird thing happened the other day though. I made a short cast and was into a steelhead at the start of the swing. It immediately jumped and ,though I bowed, the spoon flew deep into the trees behind me. I was amazed when it came out of the thick branches easily! It did because the Dacron had slid through the eyelet of the hook, leaving the hook in the steelhead. The Dacron was frayed, but not broken. I haven't been out since, but I've used pliers to try to eliminate any space between the eyelet and the shank( broke a few), on all my spoon hooks. Has anyone else had this happen; its shaken my enthusiasm for the trailing hook rigging. I'd like to think its a one off and, by tightening the eyelets, I'll be able to fish with confidence. I suppose the only way to find out is to hook and maybe lose a steelhead. The enhanced landing rate with this method is obvious, so experiment I will.
What hooks are you using? I would in no way recommend an open eyed hook, use a matzou, gammy, etc. 1/0 for a sickle hook, size 1 for octopus.
I've hooked well over 200 steelhead now on this method and have never once had a hook do that. I have at times had the braid slide through the eye at the top, so that it was just the hook sitting on the braid (rather than sitting nicely - just kind of hanging on the braid), but have never had one come completely off. The only hooks I've ever noticed this happen with are the Matzou sickles, as the eye at times doesn't seem to be closed all the way.
Everyday, would you mind sharing your opinion on using trailer hook wire (Rio's knottable wire, Senyo stinger wire, etc) instead of dacron? I'm not sure if it would be an advantage, disdvantage, or not matter at all to have the hook connected to such a stiff wire.
I can't comment in it 100% as I haven't done it. The reason I haven't done it was due to a few things.
1) The way the hook sits on the spoon may not work well, since it is thick. I got the feel the braid might kink and fray/break (think of the tremendous amount of force on the wire in the places it does contact the spoon at the back (You'll see what I mean if you rig one with wire).
2) I wanted the trailer to be completely free moving so that when fish roll, etc there are no binding points and no leverage. I thought wire would be too stiff. Possibly your finding of not landing many more fish may be because of the stiffer wire and the fish have a bit of leverage (speculation - not sure).
3) I wanted to have a method easy to do on the river. I use to tie mine up the way you described. Took a while, and I found myself at times on long weekend trips out of hooks. Now if I run out, 30 seconds on the river bank and I have a new one.
Wouldn't adding another split ring between the hook and spoon have the same effect? (Two in total between the hook and spoon) And you wouldn't have to worry about knot strength or fraying?
No, it wouldn't.
The hook would not sit properly (the hook would be side ways rather than facing -tip up- towards the bottom of the spoon). There would also be a large binding point = more lost fish. I also, personally, trust my knots and 30 pound dacron more than a lot of the split rings on the market as I have had a bunch bend out on me.
Lots of guys use a split ring --> swivel --> open eye hook. This works effectively by still dropping the hook back. The only problems I have with it are: generally it's done with bigger hooks (fish injuries), and secondly, there are still the odd binding points which help fish get off!
Im too stubborn to give up that easy, lol. I hit a dime bright 10-12lb wild today on the spinning setup. Hit a 2/3oz Silver R&B and put on a little dance. Sure was fun on the lighter gear. Im not sure the pin or the level wind will make it out this year.
Awesome man! Congrats! You'll be hooked forever now. I always hate when I have to use the pin now - much rather prefer to swing spoons or flies.