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[Silver]

I have been using these somewhat successfully on the Capilano, I was wondering if I can improve my chances in future with some more experienced input.
I tried to short float them, but I did not get any strikes even after many casts over multiple days. Also, my short floating would only result in a brief drift with the line collecting ahead of the float with too much slack. If I slowly retrieved enough to keep a slight tension, then I would have to create a slight wake with the float. I found this would occur with wool and more recently roe also.
However, when I would just cast and retrieve a weighted blade like a spinner or spoon I would get some action. Many times, I would snag fish unintentionally...most of these being moldy old fish or ones starting to turn bad. But, the others were mouth hooked landed fish or likely fair hooked as they would briefly splash and I could usually see my lure near the mouth, the exceptions would be the largest fish felt, unseen and unrelenting in their pull downstream to the rapids until they broke free.
I have read that Colorado blades are best left to flutter, and not retrieved so that the blade spins...I read that the willow leaf blades are better to cast and retrieve.  Also, I believe in dark water, drifting is better than retrieving any lure directly so that your presentation has a longer chance to provoke a fish. I use pencil lead, and have read that the use of split shot improves strikes with short 16-20inch leaders...the length I'm using. I would loose about 7-10 lures per outing, so I stopped using packaged lures after $60 in losses...the blade rig costs $1.
Obviously most of the springs are gross, but the fair hooked ones are still very clean. I never considered keeping any because they do have a light beige colored belly...but after I saw Sockeyes recent jack spring from the Vedder...my best Cap springs have been surprisingly nicer looking than the one in that picture with the fillets. I have also caught 1 bright coho and lost another 7-8lbs coho today.
My observations have led me to believe that these blades, despite the snagged fish, wrong types used for this style of fishing, poor water condition, wrong technique used, less effective weight used, etc...I have been fairly successful with an average of 1 legal and clean fish per hour, and even catching the elusive fickle Cap coho. I have also confirmed the three productive colors for dirty water 1-1.5 visibility...probably common knowledge, but nice to see the results for yourself.

What do I need to do differently? I am going to continue until the very end, and even into December if I can get another coho.

[MetalAndFeathers]

I saw you`re rig in you`re other picture,the blade slides because there is nothing to stop it,try putting the line back thru the little metak thing attached to the blade.Also use a fixed float and not a sliding one try cast and keep some tension on the float.Ive never dead drifted a reg colorado but the deep cut ones works well.




2cents

[Silver]

I saw you`re rig in you`re other picture,the blade slides because there is nothing to stop it,try putting the line back Thur the little metak thing attached to the blade.Also use a fixed float and not a sliding one try cast and keep some tension on the float.Ive never dead drifted a reg colorado but the deep cut ones works well.


2cents

I would be concerned about my line breaking strength if I loop the square clevis, some of the bigger fish would put an enormous strain on the line already...and I would lose those to a break off even with my connections carefully tied.
The slack line I was speaking about was between the rod and float. I think the canyon pools have varying currents and depth unique to the typical river run, and change up too much to produce a smooth typical run drift...or maybe my technique is off. At least where I like to fish in the canyon pools, if I used a float, I could not keep it where I wanted and without reeling excessively keep it slowly drifting without slack forming ahead of the float.

Unless I can be successful otherwise, I feel that dead drifting is the way to go. Within several cast I could get a feel for the topography of the river bed and different underwater currents, and could change retrieval speeds and rod position to follow the bottom effectively. I could find the snags and avoid them the next time...and loosing some cheap tackle is not a big deal.

So, what are deep cut blades and why are they better for dead drifting? Are the the heavy pressed metal ones? Do they spin less, which I believe is better to not scare fish? Do they require less weight?

Thanks.

[sbc hris]

I have spin casted colorados for coho for many years. No float, just a few split-shot or small piece of pencil lead. Size and colour of blade is dependant on water colour. It is a very successful and affordable way to catch coho. I have also fished them under a float, dead drifted, and caught fish that way, but the water speed determines which method I use.

[Silver]

Thought I would try an experiment. Using the logic that high contrast is the best when fishing in murky water, I painted some blades black with as close to Coho colors as possible and even added glitter clear for flash.
Although, black seems counter productive, in the silty Fraser a glitter black lure can out perform all other colors...I wonder if these will perform in the Cap?

[clarki]

I would think, in your design, that the revolving clevis would wear through and weaken the mono line. Does it?

[Silver]

I would think, in your design, that the revolving clevis would wear through and weaken the mono line. Does it?

Very observant,

I was wondering if and when this issue would be noticed. Yes, this is a flaw. When I purchased these instead of the pressed brass ones, they looked better...the store employee didn't correct me that these are for wire shafts, even when questioning the correct size one for for the blades.

After casting for over 20 minutes a weak spot will form and risk breaking the line...I lost a few this way. I also loose on average 1 complete rig during this time from snags anyway, so it hasn't been too problematic for fishing during this learning curve.

I don't like the pressed ones as they are not perfectly smooth either, and when the blade catches a rock it deforms the clevis and creates a sharp edge also. The plastic ones are great except I will sometimes loose a blade prematurely on a snag because the plastic is weak. I am ordering online stainless steel spring styles which I think will perform the best overall.

[banx]

the black works great in super clear conditions... like mid day sun on the water..... or for spooked fish.

[Silver]

Thought black was only for poor visibility...Interesting, I will try when the river cleans up.

[clarki]

I can see how you are trying to build an in-line spinner.

 Have you tried the method of building a spinner just using a split ring, 2 barrel swivels and the blade? However, the downside is you can't add the beads to that style...

[c-pin]

Hey Silver,

I admire your ingenuity and the fact you are out there testing your creations (and actually catching fish !!)

I've been building my own spinner for over 20 years now. I'd be happy to share some ideas with you, and head to the river to test some new spinners.

Feel free to PM me.

John
604 690 7472

[naturelover]

@silver: Where do you get your Colorado blades from?

re: colour of lures vs. water clarity

From what I've read, it seems there are two opposing philosophies on the 'brightness' of the lure to use vs. water clarity.

1) match the water clarity with the lure 'brightness'. i.e. black lure for murky water, silver lure for clear water
I don't quite know the reason for this.

2) match the water clarity with opposite of lure 'brightness' i.e. black lure for clear water, silver lure for murky water
Silver lure in murky water since silver is highly reflective and thus the lure will be more visible to the fish.
Black lure in clear water is to have it less flashy for the fish so that it doesn't spook them.
(I've also read though that black works well in clear water due to contrast with the surface, i.e. so that it is more visible to the fish--which is opposite in reasoning to not spooking them (less visible)).

[banx]

I wouldn't use a black blade for winter steelhead because of water temperature usually..... for salmon though, I think naturelover hit the nail on the head. there are two philosophies on when black would be good. and they are both correct in my eyes.  i could be doubly wrong though 

there is a point where there is too much flash and the fish will get spooked. you can actually see them swim away or dodge your lure.... OR if the fish have been hammered on all day long, a number 2 black blade would likely entice a bite..... if you come to a hole and no one has chucked lbs of roe at them or floated 237 blades by them already, a number 3 or 4 would be great in any colour.

here's a scenario that came up recently. I was fishing a hole with my daughter that had zero pressure on it.... she was doing well using a number 4 brass. after a few fish (coho), she went about 10 casts with out a hit.  dropped her down to a number 3 copper and she picked up a couple more fish. bite slowed down again for her so I tied on a black spinner from trophy tackle.  second cast she gets a jack. 

I would recommend jed davis book on spinner fishing. the guy is a boss.  even shows you how to silver plate your spinners. helps you interpret all the variables so you can figure out a starting point for your day and how to move forward as conditions change. 



 

[Silver]

Hey Silver,

I admire your ingenuity and the fact you are out there testing your creations (and actually catching fish !!)

I've been building my own spinner for over 20 years now. I'd be happy to share some ideas with you, and head to the river to test some new spinners.

Feel free to PM me.

John
604 690 7472

I think I'm going to need more help with this river. I tried the experimental colors with poor results, lost all of the black blades to snags from debris and botched casts. i did see 1 large salmon with bright scales surface, but nothing else.  Mind you, the river was low at level 1 and the place i went to was no longer a deep pool and just a shallow run. I have never fished when the river is this low and the couple of accessible canyon pools i visited seem too low to be productive? Also the color was terrible, like pea soup.

However, thinking about giving up for the season I walked to the cable pool and saw some guy catch a perfect coho on a silver spinner. He was on the lowest rock that usually floods when the river gets higher, throwing into the side pocket. i never considered going to the cable pool, but maybe its not so bad when the river is low.

It seems that this river does have many personalities to figure out.

[c-pin]

Hey Derek,

I got your PM. I can't reply to it on this forum.

You can text me for some info.

John
604 690 7472