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[Spawn Sack]

Hoping someone can shed some light on what I should do here.

So the trailer for our 12 foot boat is ancient. It should probably be in a museum. We mainly use it up at our cabin so I don't care that is looks a bit ghetto. I do try and keep it in good shape though, especially the wheel bearings.

Since we bought the boat + trailer 5 or so years ago I have serviced the bearings 3 times. The first time I replaced all bearings, races, and seals. the 2nd time cleaned everything and repacked with fresh grease, the 3rd time a week or so ago I replaced all bearings, races and seals again as were showing some signs of breakdown, and I figure the parts are cheap so why not just replace it all and keep everything smooth and tip top.

To back up a bit, I noticed when doing the job in prior years that the dust cap that the kit comes with will NOT tap into the "female end." If you hold it up to the old dented cap that is probably original to the trailer it LOOKS identical, but it the old one must be a hair smaller as they tap in fine, whereas the new ones will not fit.

I figured, meh, who cares I'll just keep reusing the old dust caps, no biggie.

So when I'm doing the job the other day the ones cap taps on no problem. Seems nice and tight. The other one will not tap in!!! I think there might have been a bit of excess grease in there or something. I gave it a wipe inside and it seemed to tap in fine after that.

HOWEVER, I took the boat out to the lake today for a spin. Lost a dust cap somewhere on the trip!! I noticed leaving for the day when I was strapping the boat down. I'm guessing the cap came off on my way to the lake, which means the wheel would have been submerged not once but TWICE with no dust cap on

I didn't panic as I always use waterproof grease and figured since I just did the job there would still be lots of grease left in there for the drive home. No issues driving home 75 or so km.

But, I need to fix this. Any ideas? I saved a few of the dust caps but as I said they seem a hair too big. You can tap them all you want they will not seat in there. I was thinking maybe try to file off a bit of metal around the whole circumference of the "male end" of the cap and keep at this until it taps in.

Anyone have a better idea? And any words of wisdom for not having your dust caps pop off in the 1st place?

[Noahs Arc]

Those bearing kits are a rip off. Just take your old bearings and races into a spring and axle shop and you can have both sides for about $20 for a small trailer. (Parts only)

Likewise if you're having problems finding a dust cap that works I'd take the whole hub assembly off and take it to the axle shop and they can match it up for you.

[Damien]

That can be frustrating.  Jacked the trailer up and spin the wheels, make sure the hubs aren't loose.

Make sure your cotter pins are bent back way from the bore as much as possible.

Very likely you have like 1.810 diameter hubs, and are trying to use 1.781 diameter caps in them.  Or 1.968" hubs and 1.938 caps.  They will seem to seat fine, but leave too much wiggle room with bumps and vibration shaking them loose over time.

You can use a punch and make some dimples on the outside of the dust cap so they will "bite" the inside bore of the hub.  And add a dab of locktite.  If you are using the right sizes to begin with.

[armytruck]

Red Green

Silver duct tape 

[Spawn Sack]

Those bearing kits are a rip off. Just take your old bearings and races into a spring and axle shop and you can have both sides for about $20 for a small trailer. (Parts only)

Likewise if you're having problems finding a dust cap that works I'd take the whole hub assembly off and take it to the axle shop and they can match it up for you.

Haha I didnt know the kits were a rip off. I guess they come with crap you dont need like an new dust cap, cotterpin, and little container of grease. All I really want is the bearings, races, and maybe a new inner seal. I just replaced all parts but if the parts are cheap enough ill grab 2 additional sets for next time.

Pissed I lost that cap!! I should have known it wasnt 100% seated right. At first it would not tap in flush at all but after i wiped out some excess grease in the "female end" it seemed to seat fine. Pretty sure it wasnt the cotter pin not bent over properly. I think there might still have been a bit of grease in there. We easily have 10,000k on the trailer since we bought it and who knows how many from the previous owner. Sad the dust caps lasted that long and no i need to go find a new proper match.

Sucks that the cap that comes with the kit does no fit. Odd as the bearings, races and seal is definitely the right size. What the heck?!

I think Ill just take the hub into a spring and axel shop as suggested. Anyone know a place in Chilliwack? I did a google search and Chilliwack Spring comes up but I know they are a suspension shop not really a trailer part store. Some place in Langley came up that looks like what im looking for but i really dont want to drive to Langley for a damn dust cap (!)

[Spawn Sack]

That can be frustrating.  Jacked the trailer up and spin the wheels, make sure the hubs aren't loose.

Make sure your cotter pins are bent back way from the bore as much as possible.

Very likely you have like 1.810 diameter hubs, and are trying to use 1.781 diameter caps in them.  Or 1.968" hubs and 1.938 caps.  They will seem to seat fine, but leave too much wiggle room with bumps and vibration shaking them loose over time.

You can use a punch and make some dimples on the outside of the dust cap so they will "bite" the inside bore of the hub.  And add a dab of locktite.  If you are using the right sizes to begin with.

After I did the job I spun the wheels and they were buttery smooth with no wiggle. Im c9nfident I did THAT part of the job properly.

The dust caps im pretty sure are as old as the trailer. At least 10-15 years id say. We have had the trailer for 5+ years and each time ive done the bearings ive reused the same dust caps aa the ones in the kit were a hair too big.

Also...I wonder if the grease in the capless hub is okay? It is possible the cap came off on the way to the lake, which means that hub would have been submerged for a minute or two, twice. If l it matters i used waterproof grease (Mercury).

I think i will take that hub off and if the outer bearing still looks nice and greasy i will assume it is all good? Or I could just take out both bearings, repack with new grease. I think i will also take the dust cap off the other hub and bring with me in case it will help matching up.

[Noahs Arc]

I live in Langley so I go to Pacific spring and axle. I bought 4 bearings 4 races 2 inner seals for just over $20.
Again this was for a small trailer parts only. I just take the old race and bearing in and they measure them with their caliper and I get exactly what I need. I would think any spring shop should have what you need.

[Spawn Sack]

Thank you NA. I'm going to pull that hub off that lost the dust cap and give it a clean out and re-grease. SIGH! I just did it like a week ago but like I said it is likely that the trailer did two submersions without the cap and the hub filled with water each time. Yes I used waterproof grease but for peace of mind I'll just redo the one hub then I know it's good to go.

I'll bring the hub and other dust cap that is the right size into NAPA or LORDCO and see if they can match it up. If no luck I'll bring it to Pacific Spring in Langley.

 

[armytruck]

If you pull into Langley, have a look at Princess Auto they carry an assortment of trailer axle parts . hub and bearings , axels , caps etc,etc. I got all my bearings and caps and re done my on boat trailer last year . They carried all the parts I needed .

[firstlight]

Just curious if this is an EZ Loadedr from around 1989?