Why there is a discussion about if it is better to spend $800 once or $200 4 times is beyond me when the OP was pretty clear in his question but I digress. I have no idea where the Essyoo fishes but given the casual nature of his post and gear question I would say he focuses on the main local river (feel free to correct me if I am wrong). Say the C/V. The thing about the C/V is that there really is no bushwacking left. Sure, you may walk away from the crowds but you followed a trail to get there. Unless you fall, or charge through blackberries the likely hood of a puncture is slim. And if you charge through black berries I don't care what type of breathable waders you are wearing they will get thru.
The thing is, that is one of the areas Simms excells at. Trail breaking. If that was all I did, say fishing up North, or parts of the Island sure. I would absolutely say By Simms or forget breathable. The other area Simms excells at is fit and finish. Reduce friction points the less leaks.It is pretty simple. But the thing is, this one can over come. By a used set of Cabelas, Frogs, Used, Whatever fits you BEST!!! That is step one. Step 2 is related to finish. I am willing to bet that most every leak someone develops (aside from a puncture) are in 1 of 3 spots. The top of the boot, inner thight/crotch, and just above the waist line on the seem. The reason for the boot is obvious, 2 dissimilar materials will always work there way apart. The inner thigh is also obvious 2, friction. But the one just above the waist is a bit more less obvious. It is something I learned from my hunting jackets. It all about storage. That point is where most people hang there waders, doubled over to dry. Wet waders way alot, hanging there puts stress on the seam.
The solution is to minimize these stresses. With the Boots, it is important to never just heap them in the back of you vehicle when changing. Lay them out, folded over in the trunk is fine but do not what do what I see many people do and stand up the boots and scrunch down the waders over top like one of those little garden gnomes. All the tension is pulling on the seem of the boot in a direction that was never intended. Down, instead of up as if you were wearing them. For the area between the thighs, it is a bit tougher but it is patchable. The seem close to the waist, don't store your waders on clothes hangers and never put them a way wet.
With this, will you be able to make a set of 200 waders last 10 years? No, but they should last at least 3; and according to my math 900/3 or over 900/1 over 10 years is breaking even (with a bunch more to spend on IPAs that first year)
The rules are pretty simple: Take excellent care of your gear and it may surprise you and let the guys in the G4s go through the bush first. They like to make an entrance anyway!
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Topic: Waders on a budget (Read 19496 times)